|
 |
Correct
Tire Pressure Improves Your Ride
How much tire pressure should you run? Start
by trying the manufacturer’s recommended
pressure, which you’ll find printed
on the tire sidewall (it’s often on
a small label but it might be molded into
the casing, too, so look closely). This
suggested inflation range is a good starting
point. It it’s a wide range, for example
40 to 60 psi, experiment to find which pressure
works and feels the best.
Pump Road
Rubber More, Knobbies Less
The most common mistakes are riding with
too little pressure in road tires and too
much pressure in off-road rubber. The former
happens because road treads don’t
have a lot of air volume. Sure, road tires
are pumped up to high pressures, but, because
they’re skinny tires, there’s
hardly any air inside. Consequently, even
if only a little leaks out (most bicycle
tubes are made of butyl rubber, which is
porous and naturally seeps air), the pressure
and volume are greatly reduced. To prevent
this, check tire pressure on a road bike
before every ride. If you don’t, you’ll
be riding on soft tires, which is asking
for trouble.
Off-road rubber is inflated to lower pressures
and because the tires are much wider than
road models, there’s considerably
more air inside. These differences mean
that flat tires don’t seep air very
quickly so the don’t require frequent
inflation the way skinny tires do. Unfortunately,
the tendency is to over inflate off-road
tires. By all means, if you’re riding
your fat tires exclusively on pavement and
smooth surfaces, inflate them as hard as
you like (don’t exceed the manufacturer’s
maximum recommendation).
Go Low
If you’re riding off road, however,
seriously consider lower pressures-in the
35 to 45 psi range, depending on the terrain
and you weight. This will greatly increase
your control and comfort over the trails
while improving traction and handling. Indeed,
if you’ve been riding off-road on
50 to 60 psi, you’ll be amazed at
the difference. |
| Top |
New
bike? Here’s What Else You May Need
Once you’ve rounded up the essentials
(helmet, pump, seat pack, patch kit, spare
tube, tire levers, mini tool, cycling shorts,
gloves, jersey, shoes/pedals), these accessories
will make your cycling even more enjoyable.
Floor Pump:
The frame pump is essential for emergencies
on the road and trail, but for everyday
use you’ll want a floor pump. It’ll
make short work of airing your tires and
save ear and tear on the frame pump.
Cyclo-computer:
One of the joys of cycling is being able
to cover lots of ground and a cyclo-computer
can tell you how far, how fast and how long
you’ve ridden. Some even have extra
functions such as heart rate, cadence (how
fast you’re pedaling), altitude, and
temperature. There are even wireless models.
Vehicle
Rack: The trails
or roads you bike aren’t always riding
distance away, so you may want a rack designed
to safely transport your bike on your car,
van, truck or SUV. Which one you get depends
on how many bikes you’ll carry and
on the type of vehicle you drive. Ask us
to recommend the right rack for you.
Hydration
System: Water
bottle and cages are adequate for carrying
drinks. But, hydration systems are a great
option for quenching your thirst. Insulation
keeps the beverage of choice cooler (or
warmer) longer and the drinking tube makes
sipping more convenient. The capacity on
larger systems is almost twice as much as
you can carry in two larger water bottles,
too. And, the hydration pack provides a
place to stash food, ID, small tools and
more.
Eyewear:
Don’t forget to protect your eyes
with sunglasses designed for cycling. It’s
not just glare you should be concerned about:
airborne debris form passing vehicles is
hazardous, too. Quality shades provide increased
safety, including slightly higher brow coverage
for when you’re when over. And the
UV protection means less fatigue at the
end of long days in the saddle.
Lock:
Security for your bike is important. Get
a good lock and always use it correctly
to prevent the heartbreak of bike theft. |
| Top |
Follow
A Pre-Ride Checklist To Increase Enjoyment,
Reduce Problems
Once a
week conduct this 30-minute bike inspection,
which checks all systems.
- Wipe
down the frame and look for flaking
paint that may indicate that crack has
developed. Although frame failure is
rare, it can happen. (It’s most
likely if you crash or ride hard all
the time.)
- Wipe down the rims,
to clean residue that affects braking.
Scrub with alcohol to remove any black
deposits. Closely inspect the rim sides
for wear from braking. See deep grooves?
Have us check the rim for safety.
- Spin the wheels. They
should be round and true. It they wobble,
spokes may have loosened and the wheel
should trued and tensioned.
- Grab the top of each
wheel and gently push and pull laterally,
feeling for play at the hubs. If you
find any, the wheel bearings should
be adjusted.
- Apply the front brake
and rock the bike back and forth feeling
for play. If there’s any play,
the headset (steering bearings) needs
adjustment.
- Hold onto the crankarms
and push and pull laterally feeling
for play in the bottom bracket bearings.
Play indicates adjustment is needed.
- Check that these key
parts are tight by putting a wrench
on them and trying to tighten them:
crank bolts, chainring bolts, pedals
(the left pedal is turned counter-clockwise
to tighten), stem bolts, derailleur
pulley bolts, brake bolts, seat-post
bolt, seatbolt.
- Prep the chain by
applying a bike-specific lubricant,
let it soak in for a few minutes, then
wipe off the excess with a rag.
- If your derailleur
cables run beneath the bottom bracket,
drop a bit of light oil on the contact
areas.
- Inspect your chainring
for broken teeth, but don’t be
alarmed if you have newer chainrings
and some teeth are slightly shorter
than others. Chainrings are designed
this way because the shorter teeth provide
a specific release point where the chain
can easily drop from the large ring
to the small, improving the shifting.
- Examine all the cable
for rust and fraying, signs that replacement
is needed.
- Make sure your handlebars
have end plugs because open-ended bar
can cut you if you crash on them.
|
| Top |
What’s
the best way to prevent bike theft?
Believe
it or not, most stolen bicycles get that
way they aren’t locked. So, your first
defense against theft is purchasing a quality
lock and using it whenever you leave your
ride unattended (even when it’s inside
your garage). Thieves usually ignore protected
two wheelers because so many freebies are
readily available.
But, don’t just slap on the lock and
old which way. Thieves are scoundrels but
they’re not always stupid. They’ll
get your machine or part of it, if you’re
lazy about securing it. For example most
bicycles are equipped with quick-release
wheels, which make it easy for crooks to
make off with a very expensive chunk of
your machine if you forget to lock the wheel
(or the rest of the bike, if you only secure
one wheel!). Likewise, if you wrap a cable
around a parking meter, the felon can just
lift the bike over the post’s top,
toss your pride and joy in his truck and
take it home where he can break off the
lock at his leisure.
Avoid
the misery of bike theft by following our
seven safety rules:
- Tell
us how and where you’ll use your
lock and we’ll recommend the best
models and demonstrate their use.
- Ask
us where the high-risk areas in town are
so you won’t make the mistake of
parking there.
- At
home, store your bicycles inside. If kept
in a garage, keep the door closed and
store your two wheelers out of sight and
locked; you never know who might cruise
your neighborhood looking for valuables.
- When
stopped, if you can’t take your
bike inside, always lock it.
- Always
lock you bike to an unbreakable and immovable
object being certain to secure the frame
and both wheels.
|
| Top |
Proper
Shifting Helps Your Bike Last Longer, Work
Better
An important shifting rule is to reduce pressure
on the pedals during shifts. Modern drivetrains
will shift regardless of pedal pressure. But,
if you can always ease up a bit, the shifts
will be smoother and your chain, cogs and
chainrings will last longer.
Shift Before
Hills
The hardest place to ease pedaling, of course,
is when you’re struggling to get up
a steep hill. The trick is to shift before
the steep part of the hill so you can make
the shift with little pressure on the pedals.
Finesse Front
Shifts
Another thing to remember concerns shifting
the front derailleur. You’re shifting
between chainrings that are significantly
different in size. This means that the derailleur
has to work hard to move the chain from one
to the other. So, the light-pedal-pressure
rule really applies here. If you can finesse
this shift, you’re much more likely
to get a clean, smooth shift. And, you’ll
eliminate problems associated with high-pressure
shifts such as having the chain come off.
Shift That
Dropped Chain On
Speaking of chains falling off, you can usually
shift the chain right back on the chainring
if it fall off. This isn’t possible
if it falls off when you’re climbing
a hill, because you lose your momentum and
have to stop. But, anytime you’re riding
where you can coast for a few seconds, you
can almost always get the chain on by gently
pedaling and shifting the front derailleur
to move the chain toward the ring. Pedal slowly
and lightly and the ring will grab and engage
the chain and you’ll be riding again
as before. (When a chain comes off repeatedly,
something is wrong and you should have us
take a look at the front derailleur adjustment.)
Drivetrain
Care
In addition to proper shifting, cleaning and
preventive maintenance can extend the life
of your drivetrain as well. For starters,
keep your chain clean and well lubricated.
Chain-cleaning tools make it a snap to keep
you links spotless. We can recommend some. |
| Top |
Advantage
of Folding Tires
Folding tires make a significant difference
in handling and ride quality. For example,
there’s road rubber that uses special
materials and construction to improve the
suppleness of the tire, resulting in a much
smoother ride. And, there are models designed
for sky-high pressures designed to reduce
rolling resistance and assist all-out racing
efforts. And all folding tires are lighter
for improved climbing and acceleration.
Carry A
Spare
An often-overlooked advantage of these folding
road tires is that it’s easy to carry
a spare. Folders pack small enough to fit
in a seat bag, jersey pocket or suitcase
(when you travel with your bike). This means
that you can easily carry a replacement
if you’re concerned that one of your
tires is ready to fall.
Innovations
if Off-Road Rubber.
Interestingly, the biggest advance in tire
technology recently is the advent of tubeless
off-road tires. These still use air, but
like car tires, an airtight seal is formed
at the rim to eliminate the need for a tube
and rim strip. Although they usually require
the use of a special rim, these tires are
gaining in popularity because you can run
lower pressures than with conventional tires
with no risk of pinch flatting.
The soft pressure, combined with a suppleness
that results from the elimination of the
friction between the tube and the tire,
allows tubeless knobbies to grip better
in corners and provide more suspension and
speed over stutterbumps, roots and rough
terrain. Climbing traction improves a lot,
too. And, in the event of a puncture, the
construction of these new tubulars is such
that air leaks out slower than with a conventional
tire and tube - usually slow enough to ride
home. Plus, if you get a flat that releases
the air immediately, you can easily fix
the tire by installing a regular tube and
inflating as with normal tires and tubes. |
| Top |
 |
Considering
A Pump? Get The Right Type
No one likes to consider being stuck, away
from home, with a flat tire. That’s
what makes a frame pump such a popular and
essential accessory. There are two types
of frame pumps, those made for off road
and those made road biking. The difference
has to do with the difference in tires.
Off-road tires are fatter, require more
volume and are run at lower pressures. Conversely,
road tires are skinnier and take less air,
but at much higher pressures. Frame pumps
are designed fore these differences.
Big Barrel
Versus Small Barrel
For example, off-road pumps typically feature
larger-diameter barrels (aluminum barrels
are best), which thrust more into the tube
with each stroke. Road pumps have the opposite,
a narrow barrel that pushes less air in.
This smaller-diameter barrel, though, makes
it possible to insert higher pressures because
you’re pushing less air in with each
stroke.
Check The
Chuck
The pump head (also called the chuck) is
important, too. Choose a pump that quickly
converts between Presta & Schrader valves
if you have bikes in the family with both
valve types or want to be prepared for everything
(you might get a chance to rescue some other
cyclist whose pump fails). Some pumps automatically
adapt to the appropriate valve. Another
clever new design found on certain frame-mount
pumps include a T-handle, fold-down footpad,
and flexible hose features-that turn the
inflator into a trailside floor pump.
Mighty
Minis
Not all pumps fit all frames. If you’re
not sure what to get, ride your bikes in
so we can take a look and recommend a pump.
Usually, mini pumps fit best because they
come with a bracket that attaches to the
bottle-cage screws. Once this bracket is
installed, you just snap the pump into it
to hold it securely (sometimes there’s
a little Velcro strap to help keep the pump
in place). Or, you might prefer to carry
your mini in your hydration pack of your
jersey pocket (this can get uncomfortable
on long rides). |
| Top |
|
|
|
